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Clean eating has been attacked by critics such as the baker and cookbook author Ruby Tandoh who wrote a much-shared article on the subject in Vice magazine in May for being an incitement to eating disorders.
She died later that year. Separately, Young was jailed in June this year after being convicted of charges including practising medicine without a licence. But however much the concept of clean eating has been logically refuted and publicly reviled, the thing itself shows few signs of dying.
Step into the cookbook section of any book shop and you will see how many recipe writers continue to promise us inner purity and outer beauty. Avocados now outsell oranges in the UK. Nutribullets — a brand of compact blenders designed for making supposedly radiance-bestowing juices and smoothies — are now mentioned in some circles as casually as wooden spoons.
Why has clean eating proved so difficult to kill off?
Hadley Freeman, in this paper, identified clean eating as part of a post-truth culturewhose adherents are impervious, or even hostile, to facts and experts. The interesting question is not whether clean eating is nonsense, but why so many intelligent people decided to put their faith in it. We are not the only generation to have looked in disgust at an unhealthy food environment and wished that we could replace it with nutrients that were perfectly safe to eat.
In the s, a British chemist called Arthur Hill Hassall became convinced that the whole food supply of London was riddled with toxins and fakery. Hassall had done a series of investigations for the medical journal the Lancet, and found that much of what was for sale as food and drink was not what it seemed: Years of exposing the toxic deceptions all around him seems to have driven Hassall to a state of paranoia.
He started to see poison everywhere, and decided that the answer was to create a set of totally uncontaminated food products. Inhe set up his own firm, The Pure Food Company, which would only use ingredients of unimpeachable quality.
The Pure Food Company of sounds just like a hundred wellness food businesses today — except for the fact that it collapsed within a year due to lack of sales. We are once again living in an environment where ordinary food, which should be something reliable and sustaining, has come to feel noxious.
One of the things that makes the new wave of wellness cookbooks so appealing is that they assure the reader that they offer a new way of eating that comes without any fear or guilt. The founding principle of these modern wellness regimes is that our current way of eating is slowly poisoning us.The industry generates the vast majority of its revenue from tattoos, though some establishments offer ancillary products and services, namely body piercing.
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